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Malta Diary And the times are achanging – the days of non-gender clothing are with us

ALBERT FENECH

MalDia-07-11-05-22-Disco-wear-five-years-ago
MalDia-07-11-05-22-Disco-wear-five-years-ago

When I was still a boy there was absolutely no difficulty in recognising whether a person was a man or a woman, a boy or a girl, from a mile off because their clothing was so distinctive and left no doubts. 

Today I live in a second floor apartment, my large kitchen window overlooking one of Qawra’s busy main roads, Triq it-Turisti. Sometimes, with time to spare while cooking, I stand and view pedestrian life and movement in the road that stretches below me in a straight line for about 500 metres.

MalDia-09-11-05-22-Non-gender
Non-gender

In almost all cases it is difficult to ascertain whether one is viewing a man or a woman, a boy or a girl. Most women wear trousers and have short hair, or hair drawn into a bun, while men of course still wear trousers but some have long hair or closely cropped hair. This leads me to think “is that a man or a woman?” and I only make the distinction when they draw really close – and even that sometimes still leaves a question mark! 

Over my 70 plus years I have witnessed the evolution – or devolution – of human clothing apparel. As a boy, a woman or a girl wearing a pair of trousers was deemed to be “fickle” and “loose” as well as having the cheek to resemble a man.

MalDia-01-11-05-22-One-gender-clothing-in-2022
One-gender-clothing-in-2022

 As recently as 60 years ago in Malta and Gozo, one could still occasionally see the odd woman or two wearing the “Ghonella” sometimes also called the “Faldetta”. They were mainly elderly spinsters and members of an ultra-religious Christian sect known as “Il-Muzew” with male members being forbidden to wear neckties (seen as a vanity) and forbidden to smoke and drink alcohol (corporal vices). 

However, the “Ghonella” had deeper aspirations going back to the time of the Knights (15/16/17th centuries) when it was coyly and decorously worn by noble and rich women as a sign of modesty at a time when female dress code required that every part of the body should be covered and only the face could be seen and this too was normally covered by a large hand-held fan.

MalDia-02-11-05-22-Religious-women-wearing-the-Ghonella-70-years-ago
Religious-women-wearing-the-Ghonella-70-years-ago

In time the “Ghonella” was relegated to the common streets where it was converted to being totally black and resembled a mix of the Islamic “Burka” and the “Nigab” and was mainly worn by virgins and spinsters. 

However, there was still the Victorian-style dress code for other women specifying that all bodily parts should be covered and that included men who wore a horrific full-length woollen bathing costume at the seaside that covered back, chest, trunk and everything else.

MalDia-03-11-05-22-The-Faldetta-also-known-as-the-Ghonella
The-Faldetta-also-known-as-the-Ghonella

By the 1960s and 70s times were however achanging, gradually at first but gathering pace. Up to the mid-70s there was still extremely strict censorship of films and printed material. Because of Malta’s ties with Britain and the improvement of air travel, British newspapers became available in Malta on a same-day basis. 

The bikini was banned in the islands and a fleet of censors were kept busy 24/7 inking over each and every copy of newspapers like “The Daily Mirror”, “The News of the World” and later “The Sun” to cover pictures of bikini girlies. I distinctly remember one occasion in the late 60s when I wrote an irate letter to the Maltese PM because the censors had even inked over pictures of classic nude paintings in a (London) “Sunday Times” colour supplement!

MalDia-04-11-05-22-On-the-way-to-church-strictly-othordox
On-the-way-to-church-strictly-othordox

Police personnel were kept busy during summer on the beaches and any woman having the cheek to wear a bikini (mainly foreigners) was made to wrap-up in a towel 

At the back of all this staid and stunted “morality” were the Church authorities holding a great influence over the Government. This was finally broken in the early 70s with a change of party in Government, an altogether far more radical and left wing organisation and slowly but surely the facade began to crumble.

MalDia-05-11-05-22-Appropriate-party-wear-for-ladies-in-the-1950s
Appropriate-party-wear-for-ladies-in-the-1950s

An even greater blow to Church “morality” was television, particularly Italian channels freely viewed in Malta with female presenters not known for dress prudence and with programmes replete with sexy themes. Today of course it’s the internet and the multi social media available on it. 

The odd mini-skirt had already made its appearance in the mid-60s, but from the mid-70s onwards all traces of an orthodox dress code completely vanished. This too coincided with the development of the Paceville disco area and an increased proliferation of drinking holes – so different from two decades previously when a woman entering a public bar was classed as being “common” or a “prostitute”, and those labels applied to women smoking in public.

MalDia-06-11-05-22-Party-wear-before-the-pandemic
Party-wear-before-the-pandemic

Hemlines and necklines plunged. Skimpy tank tops and even skimpier skirts and shorts ruled the day. Gradually, tattoos took the islands by storm. Visitors have often remarked to me how “astonished” they are to see Maltese female teenagers so “outrageously” attired. Discos are certainly not a place for middle-aged or elderly men with a dodgy heart! 

If you want to invest in a profitable business in Malta and Gozo (to run on lucrative parallels with undertaking), open a fashion shop, or a hairdresser, a model agency, or a nail bar, or cosmetic massage parlour, or a tattoo parlour and start importing anti-wrinkle creams, breast enhancements and all the rest of the trimmings. You are assured profitable, ongoing trading.

MalDia-08-11-05-22-Non-gender
Non-gender

The weather too has a lot to do with the conditioning that rules clothing. The hotter the weather the more necklines and hemlines tend to plunge. 

None the less continual changes occur for a great variety of reasons – mainly affecting women. Many now see the wearing of skimpy clothing as being an “insult” to femininity because of sporting sexy physical attractions rather than intellectual skill and capacity. Women in offices don business suits and generally wear trousers. 

The physical and clothing differences between the genders is becoming less and less. There will come a time when there is only one gender and it will be prohibited to use “the male gender” or “the female gender” because there has to be no distinction in anything. 

As an old man in all this, what are my feelings? In my view, a man is a man and a woman is a woman. That does not increase/decrease intellectual capacities or skills because these are equal – and have always been. History speaks for itself in this but is unfortunately dominated by “male supremacy”!

ALBERT FENECH

 

E/mail – salina46af@gmail.com

 

Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/jerome.fenech

 

__________________              __________________

MALTESE SAYING

 

“And the bamboo cane in the wind does not ripple and crackle without reason”

 

Used to indicate that whatever is to happen, happens.

_________________               _______________